In the Mitte of Everything

 Since I am a person requiring historical context in every moment, I've been reading up on Berlin history and even got two books about it in German (which I have not yet put in the effort to read). 

In a little over a week, I have traversed the core neighborhoods of Berlin with my mother, who left on Wednesday. We even had a lovely day trip in Potsdam, a city on the southwest border of Berlin. It's only fair that I educate you as I show you my journey. But first, a:

So long, fare-Wellness Check:

SLEEP: Until a couple days ago, falling asleep before 2:30 am and achieving an uninterrupted cycle remained out of reach. Most of my days officially started at 11:30 am..

FOOD: There is good Italian and Asian food everywhere, though I've only had traditional German food once, because somebody (MOM) is not a fan. Food and alcohol is way cheaper here (of course, my standard has been prices in New York City, New Jersey, and a wealthy Chicago suburb, so everything seems like a deal right now). 

LIFE UPDATES: I am close to having a Deutsche Bank account, and I've visited the school I'll be working at and the place I'll be residing in October!

EMOTIONS: Hopefully I'm not being too aggressive in my pursuit to fill my time and my brain. As long as I remember to eat, talk to people and take moments to slow down, I'll be fine.

Alas, your virtual fun-fact-and-regular-fact-tour of some places in the Berlin "Mitte" begins here:

1. Tiergarten

The circled area is Tiergarten. Brandenburg Gate. (2022, June 11). In Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brandenburg_Gate 

The closest place I explored was the Tiergarten (animal garden), The Tiergarten park includes a 5-kilometer walking path (which I'll one day consider actually running), the Berlin zoo, and several charming restaurants and beer gardens.

Fun fact: It used to serve as royal hunting grounds as early as the 17th century, and a boulevard known as call the Unter den Linden ("under the lindens") connects it all the way through the famous Brandenburg Gate and where the city palace stood. 

I forgot to take a photo while in the park but this one shows a path to the Siegesäule (victory tower). Manfred Brückels/Wikimedia Commons

2. Berlin Central Station 

Two exciting views from the inside and outside of the transportation station.

Berlin Hauptbahnhof is the largest station in Europe with five levels and also a whole shopping mall. Despite the 700 million euro expense, it has bolstered Berlin's overall transportation system and economy.

Berlin has several transit options: the Strassebahn or S-Bahn for short, which translates to street rail, the Untergrundbahn or U-bahn, which translates to underground train, the tram, (which is a streetcar), and the bus. 

Although I've been buying tickets online or at the station (most of the time), no one has checked to see that I actually got a ticket. Coming from America, this honor system is unbelievable to me. I had to Google: "Do people in Berlin pay for transit?"  One Reddit user said that they most do pay every time, because the fine if randomly caught is 60 euros. 

3.  Alexanderplatz and Marien quarter

I knew Alexanderplatz as an important eastern district in the Berlin city center, but I was surprised to find so many people and American franchises in the area around the station, reminding me of Times Square. Luckily, mother and I retreated to the quieter Marienviertel (Marien quarter), where we observed several historic landmarks.

For example, the German Democratic Republic -- that's East Germany -- erected the Berliner Fernsehturm or Berlin Television Tower between 1965-1969 as a symbol of the communist power, and also transmit radio signals. It's still the tallest building in Germany (and the third tallest in Europe), but it now stands as a symbol of the reunification of Berlin in 1990.

Here is a glimpse of the whole 368.03m (1,207.45 ft) tower at sunset, which boasts a rotating restaurant sphere and observation deck. During the day, the windows at the top reflect a cross, which is ironic because the Soviet Union was atheist. The people deemed this the "pope's revenge."

Marienkirche or Mary's Church was my favorite location of the day, because nothing is more fun to me than deconstructing Renaissance nativity cycles in a 750-year-old church. I have since learned that basically none of the art survived the destruction and looting of the church by the Soviet army during World War II. In fact, much of the replacement art came from other damaged churches. This question of how to deal with lost art when reconstructing a site is definitely a subject I'll return to for this blog.

Marienkirche is the oldest remaining still-used church in Berlin. Outside the church would have been a bustling market lined with butcher stalls. Manfred Brückels Wikimedia/Commons

Okay, I didn't take a picture of the elaborately gilded gold altar or must-see dancing dead people fresco at the entrance, but I did note this painting because I enjoyed just how many scenes the composition fit around the crucifixion: from the fall of man, annunciation, nativity, last supper, arrest, descent from the cross, burial, resurrection, ascension, etc. I guess if you're going to condense the Bible to a relatively small painting, this is how you do it.

Across from the church is Rotes Rathaus or Red Town Hall, which is named so after the color. Built between 1861 and 1869, at the top of the structure waves the state flag of Berlin, which is red and white striped with a bear in the middle. The flag was first flown at this very building in 1913 and the design was only created two years prior.

A tip for #goingplaces is to go inside places. I realize I could have gone into this place, but I didn't think of it and we were on our way to eat pasta.

Walking in the city center, it's startling to try and piece together what was lost when Berlin was divided for 41 years. I mean, what does the town hall mean if the town is split in two? Additionally, as the Berlin Wall started construction in 1961 not only did it physically cut off the east from the west, it left some parts of the city in a "no man's land," where no one could trespass.

The historian/artist in me is interested in that whole idea: how do people and institutions try to make up for what is lost, all the damaged, missing, or unknown parts of history that for one reason or another unrecoverable?  But before I write that novel, here are some more quick pictures from my week in Berlin. 

Funky Fresh Fotos

On a bridge Thursday, September 1 after a night of fun near the Berlin Central Station.

On Friday, September 2, we trekked Unter den Linden from Potsdamer Platz to the Brandenburg Gate after dinner, about one kilometer.

A table from a street market on Saturday, September 3. 

On Monday, September 5, My mother and I went on a boat tour through the city center. I forget what this structure is called and what it is for, but I know an American architect designed it with the message that people and society are limitless when we value free expression and openness. Looking at the design, I hear you loud and clear, my man.

FUN FACT: Berlin has more canals than anywhere in the world,and has 1700 bridges -- four times as much as Venice. In the distance, you can see the TV Tower and Museum Island, which is home to five museums. 

Me at the Potsdam central station waiting for a bus to go to Sanssouci palace, the summer residence of Frederick the Great of Prussia on Tuesday, September 6. 

A view of Sanssouci palace from a windmill. The gardens around the palace are totally free to the public.

A picture of me inside Sanssoucci palace. Frederick the Great really liked this mauve color seen in the upholstery.

Welp, that's definitely enough for now. In fact, it was probably excessive. 

So long, farewell, auf wiedersehen bis 2-5 days.